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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. But, nestled prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The honour has left the owners totally astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble place securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary honour.